Victoria Falls & Devil’s Pool: An Epic Zimbabwe & Zambia Adventure Travel Guide

Prepare for an extraordinary journey to one of Africa’s most breathtaking natural wonders: Victoria Falls. This comprehensive guide will take you through our unforgettable adventure, from navigating border crossings between Zimbabwe and Zambia to experiencing the adrenaline rush of Devil’s Pool. It was, without a doubt, the most incredible experience we’ve had since arriving in Africa, a truly long-awaited and picture-packed post that I promise is entirely worth your time.

Victoria Falls, known locally as Mosi-oa-Tunya, or “the smoke that thunders,” is not just a waterfall; it’s a colossal spectacle of nature. Standing an astounding 355 feet high and twice the height of North America’s Niagara Falls, it proudly claims its place on the Zambezi River, forming a natural border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. David Livingstone, the first European to lay eyes on this marvel, named it in honor of Queen Victoria, a common tribute across Southern Africa. However, its indigenous name perfectly captures its essence – the sheer power of the water creates a spray that rises hundreds of feet into the air, resembling smoke, while the thunderous roar echoes for miles. While not the world’s tallest or widest waterfall, Victoria Falls is globally recognized as the largest sheet of falling water, making it an awe-inspiring sight unlike any other.

Arriving in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe: Tips for a Smooth Entry

Our adventure began after a brief overnight stay in Gauteng, South Africa, before our flight whisked us away to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. A quick heads-up for fellow travelers: be prepared for potential flight delays with Air Zimbabwe, as both our inbound and outbound flights experienced them. We touched down in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, in the late afternoon, stepping directly onto the tarmac of its charmingly small airport, which boasts only two international gates – a far cry from bustling metropolitan hubs.

Upon arrival, the first order of business was to purchase our visas. Zimbabwe currently operates using the US dollar as its national currency, and it’s crucial to note that visa payments must be made in cash. Thankfully, there’s an ATM at the airport, though it dispensed our cash in hundred-dollar bills, which proved surprisingly difficult to break. Our plan included a visit to Zambia, so we opted for double-entry visas, priced at $45 each. My top tip for future visitors: withdraw plenty of smaller denominations if possible, or make a stop at one of the banks in town to get change. Victoria Falls is largely a cash-only city, and while most places accept USD, South African Rand, and Zambian Kwacha, having smaller bills will save you a lot of hassle, especially when it comes to tipping the excellent local service providers.

Our Home Away From Home: The Rainbow Hotel

We had meticulously planned our entire trip through KDR Travel and Tours, a service that proved incredibly easy to work with. They arranged a convenient shuttle to pick us up from the airport and transport us to our accommodation. We chose the Rainbow Hotel, nestled on the Zimbabwean side of the falls. It was a truly gorgeous hotel, striking the perfect balance as a mid-range option for our two-night stay. While the area boasts several elaborate, high-end resorts, our focus was on exploration, meaning we didn’t plan to spend extensive time at the hotel. The Rainbow Hotel offered comfort and a great location without breaking the bank, providing a serene base for our adventures. Here’s a peek into our comfortable room after settling in:

An Evening on the Zambezi: Sunset Cruise Adventure

After checking into our room and unwinding for a bit, we headed straight to the pool bar for a refreshing drink. While Southern Africa is renowned for its wine, the local beer scene also offers some excellent choices. My fiancé quickly discovered and fell in love with Zambezi Lager, a local favorite. He was so smitten, he even bought a Zambezi Lager t-shirt at the airport on our way out! (Don’t worry, Oregon, your craft brews still hold a special place in our hearts.)

Knowing we wouldn’t have time to visit Victoria Falls National Park that evening, we had pre-booked a dinner cruise on the magnificent Zambezi River. The plan was for a shuttle to pick us up at 5:15 PM for a 5:30 PM cruise departure. As the clock ticked past 5:15, a sense of worry began to creep in. We approached the hotel’s activities coordinator, who immediately looked panicked and sprang into action, making a flurry of phone calls. About ten agonizing minutes later, a car finally arrived.

We raced to the docks, only to find the dinner cruise had already departed without us. My heart sank, envisioning the tedious process of getting a refund and returning to the hotel. However, our determined driver and another dock attendant quickly sprang into action. They began walkie-talkie communication with the boat and waved frantically, prompting the vessel to actually turn around and return for us. While this might sound like a relief, in that moment, I was utterly mortified. A boat packed full of people was forced to make a five-minute detour, all for “little ol’ us.” The boat was open, offering no place to hide, and every single passenger quietly stared as we re-docked. My face, I swear, matched the color of my hot pink dress the entire time!

Once we found our seats, which naturally were right in the middle of the boat, and I secured a much-needed glass of wine, the collective interest in our late arrival waned. I slowly began to shake off my humiliation, which I’m certain was far more pronounced in my own mind than to anyone else. Here’s a picture of me finally calming down, appreciating the beauty around us:

My fiancé, ever the supportive partner, was only mildly embarrassed and mostly just found my distress amusing. He has a kind way of making light of stressful situations, which was much appreciated.

Wildlife Encounters on the Zambezi

The Zambezi River is teeming with wildlife, and we were quickly rewarded with our first sightings. Almost immediately, we spotted hippos, their eyes and nostrils barely breaking the surface of the water. In fact, throughout our entire trip, every time we were near the Zambezi, we were guaranteed to see these fascinating creatures. Their presence adds a constant, subtle thrill to any riverside activity, reminding you of the vibrant ecosystem around you.

We were also fortunate enough to see elephants, not just once, but three separate times during the cruise! Unfortunately, the fading light made photography challenging, and while this picture doesn’t fully capture the majesty of the moment, it’s the best I could manage. Witnessing these gentle giants along the riverbanks as the sun dipped below the horizon was a truly magical experience, a perfect welcome to the African bush.

As the cruise continued, the sunset unfolded in a spectacular display of colors, painting the sky in fiery hues of orange, pink, and purple. We had truly picked the perfect time of year for our visit; the weather was consistently sunny with pleasant temperatures in the mid-80s, ideal for exploring. After enjoying a delicious buffet dinner on board, accompanied by the sounds of the river and the calls of nocturnal wildlife, we returned to the dock after dark. Much to my relief (given our earlier shuttle saga), there was indeed a shuttle waiting to take us back to the hotel. Back in our room, my fiancé was thrilled to discover nine sports channels at his disposal, so we unwound with some TV before calling it a night, mentally preparing for a seriously big day ahead.

Day of Adventure: Crossing Borders and Conquering Devil’s Pool

The next day dawned bright and early, marking the beginning of what would become the highlight of our trip. After a hearty breakfast at the hotel, we inquired about a taxi to the border. What seemed like a simple request turned into a bit more of an ordeal than anticipated, but with perseverance, we eventually secured our ride. On the Zimbabwean side, our passports were stamped for exit, marking the official end of our brief stay in the country for now. From there, we embarked on a fascinating 15-minute walk to the Zambian border post, a journey that included crossing the iconic Victoria Falls Bridge.

The Victoria Falls Bridge: A View from Above

Walking across the Victoria Falls Bridge offered an absolutely incredible, panoramic view of the falls themselves, as well as the churning waters of the Zambezi Gorge below. The sheer scale of the landscape was breathtaking. Far beneath us, we could see people kayaking, navigating the powerful currents – a sight that, while thrilling, instantly reminded me of my own anxieties regarding white-water rafting. I truly wish I were braver for such activities! Even more daring, individuals were bungee jumping off this very bridge, plummeting into the gorge with a scream before recoiling upwards. Again, a definite ‘no thank you’ from me, but an amazing spectacle to witness from a safe distance.

After crossing the bridge, we passed by the entrance to Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park on the Zambian side. The prominent sign served as a stark, yet exciting, reminder of the abundant wildlife that roams freely in this region – a taste of the wilderness even before entering the park itself.

Entering Zambia: Visas and Baboons

Finally, we reached the border post on the Zambian side. Here, a quick temperature check was administered as a precautionary measure against Ebola – a routine, but reassuring, health screening. We then purchased our single-entry visas, which cost $20 each and, like Zimbabwe, required cash payment. The most memorable aspect of this border crossing, however, was the pervasive presence of baboons. They were everywhere! One particularly endearing sight was a baboon with a baby clinging to her back, an image of wild motherhood amidst the border hustle.

Having spent time in South Africa, we are quite accustomed to seeing baboons. While initially charming, their appeal tends to diminish rapidly once you realize their keen interest in your food and the constant need to guard your belongings lest they snatch them away. Fortunately, these particular baboons didn’t harass us too much, allowing us to complete our entry formalities relatively undisturbed.

The Royal Livingstone Hotel: A Luxurious Base

From the Zambian border, we hailed another cab to take us to the illustrious Royal Livingstone Hotel. This was our meeting point for the expedition to Devil’s Pool – an activity I consider the scariest thing I’ve ever done, as you’re about to discover. The Royal Livingstone is arguably the most famous and opulent hotel in the Victoria Falls area. It’s the kind of place you dream of returning to when you’re “real grownups” with all the resources to travel the world. I’m optimistically wishing that into being, hard enough to make it happen, so we can bring our future children back to experience its grandeur.

The hotel grounds themselves offered an immediate and surprising wildlife encounter: zebras were casually grazing on the manicured lawns, acting as if it were the most normal thing in the world. Naturally, we couldn’t resist the opportunity to quietly approach them and capture some fantastic photographs. This effortless blend of luxury and raw nature is truly what sets places like the Royal Livingstone apart.

The Thrill of Devil’s Pool: An Unforgettable Dive

Around the scheduled pickup time for our journey to Livingstone Island, the launching point for the Devil’s Pool swim, we made our way to the hotel’s private dock. There, we met two other Americans from California who would be joining us for this extraordinary experience. One of them shared my palpable nervousness, which, surprisingly, made me feel a little braver, knowing I wasn’t alone in my apprehension. While waiting, we savored the stunning river views and watched a family of hippos lounging in the water a few hundred feet away, their presence a constant reminder of the wild beauty surrounding us.

Soon, our small boat arrived to collect us. The guide efficiently split us into two groups of six. We found ourselves with the other two Americans, a woman from Colombia, and a man from Spain – a diverse group united by a shared sense of excitement and trepidation. The boat ride to Livingstone Island was a swift five-minute journey, offering prime opportunities for selfies against the dramatic backdrop of the Zambezi. As we drew closer, the spray of the falls became increasingly visible, a misty curtain rising high into the sky, which did little to quell my growing fears about the impending swim.

Livingstone Island: The Vantage Point

We disembarked on Livingstone Island, a historical site named for David Livingstone himself, who first observed Victoria Falls from this very spot. A commemorative plaque marks this significant viewpoint, providing a perfect opportunity for us to pause and capture stunning photographs of the falls. From this vantage point, the falls were absolutely breathtaking, their grandeur amplified by vibrant rainbows arcing through the perpetual mist – a truly ethereal scene that temporarily overshadowed my anxiety about the swim.

From the viewpoint, we proceeded to a designated spot to leave our belongings, nervously crossing our fingers that no opportunistic baboons would decide our bags (containing our passports!) were interesting enough to snatch. We entrusted one camera per couple to a dedicated guide, who, with remarkable bravery, would navigate the slippery rocks near the falls to capture our epic moments. Then, it was time for the swim. Ironically, I was more apprehensive about the swim from Livingstone Island to Devil’s Pool itself than about actually being at the edge of the falls. The current was incredibly strong, and while I consider myself a competent swimmer, my experience is purely recreational. Our guide, however, was exceptional; he provided clear, concise instructions on how to swim against the current and ensured everyone’s safety, reassuring us that much of the path was shallow enough to walk.

Into the Devil’s Pool: The Ultimate Adrenaline Rush

And then… the moment arrived. We entered Devil’s Pool, a natural rock pool literally at the very edge of Victoria Falls. This unique phenomenon forms when the Zambezi River’s water levels are suitably low, typically between September and December. A natural rock barrier, just inches from the precipice, holds back the powerful current, creating a seemingly calm pool where adventurers can safely swim. While the current within the pool is still noticeably strong, and extreme caution is paramount, it is absolutely doable. Of course, I say that now, safely ensconced in front of my computer in Cape Town, far from the roaring abyss!

The experience was surreal. Looking down over the edge, the 350-foot drop to the swirling waters below was both terrifying and exhilarating. The roar of the falls, the spray on our faces, the sheer power of nature surrounding us – it was an assault on the senses in the most magnificent way. Here we are with our fantastic guide, right on the edge:

And here’s me, grappling with a mixture of awe and sheer terror, gazing straight down at the cascading water:

My fiancé, on the other hand, looked the happiest he’s ever been, striking a triumphant Superman pose against the backdrop of the thundering falls:

For a wider perspective, look closely at the upper right-hand corner of this photo. See the tiny specks that are people? That’s us, bravely (or perhaps foolishly, depending on your perspective!) swimming in Devil’s Pool, a mere human scale against the might of Victoria Falls.

To truly convey the full effect of this incredible feat, here’s a video capturing a glimpse of our heart-pounding adventure!

Full disclosure: my fiancé actually signed us up for this activity without consulting me first. He presented me with a video, told me to “think about it,” and when I finally worked up the courage to say we should do it, he casually replied, “Good, I signed us up last week.” Slightly rude, perhaps, but ultimately, a decision for which I am eternally grateful!

Despite my initial hesitation, I am genuinely, profoundly glad we did this. After making the decision, I felt a surge of excitement, only for it to be momentarily dampened when we showed the video to our moms, whose panicked reactions made me question if it was truly worth the risk. However, our guide was absolutely fantastic, taking exceptional care of every person in our group. As long as you exercise common sense and diligently follow the guide’s instructions, you will be completely safe. I have never, ever experienced anything as thrilling, awe-inspiring, or humbling as swimming in Devil’s Pool. The view of Victoria Falls from that precarious edge is utterly unique and literally unobtainable anywhere else in the world. There’s something profoundly cool about being in the same waters that plunge over such an immense precipice. And, let’s be honest, a good adrenaline rush is always incredibly fun and makes for the best travel stories!

Post-Swim Relaxation and More Wildlife

After our exhilarating dip, we swam back from Devil’s Pool to Livingstone Island. This return journey felt a little more challenging, as our muscles were tired from fighting the current on the way over, and the adrenaline high was beginning to subside. Once dried off and dressed, we were treated to a delicious breakfast served right on the island, complete with an unparalleled view of the thundering falls. It was the perfect opportunity to calm down, process the incredible experience, and relive the moments with our fellow adventurers, sharing our awe and excitement.

On our boat ride back to the Royal Livingstone Hotel, another delightful surprise awaited us: a group of elephants peacefully grazing on the riverbank! Elephant and rhino sightings have, by far, been my favorite animal encounters during our time in Africa. They are such majestic, intelligent creatures, and I find myself utterly awestruck by them every single time.

Before heading back to Zimbabwe, we decided to fully soak in the luxurious ambiance of the Royal Livingstone Hotel. We enjoyed a relaxing drink on their expansive deck, taking in the magnificent river views and the occasional spray from the falls in the distance. The hotel grounds were also home to adorable little white monkeys, which darted playfully around. One particularly curious fellow decided to pay our table a visit!

This little monkey was quite skittish, panicking and darting away every time it realized we were observing it. Despite its shyness, it did hold still just long enough for us to capture one good, memorable photo.

Exploring the Zimbabwean Side of Victoria Falls

After our delightful interlude at the Royal Livingstone, we hailed a taxi to take us back to the Zambian border post. Here, we processed our exit stamp from Zambia before our helpful taxi driver drove us all the way to the Zimbabwean border post – a welcome convenience after our exhilarating morning. The line to re-enter Zimbabwe was significantly longer and somewhat more chaotic, but we eventually navigated the process and received our second entry stamps into the country.

A crucial travel tip for anyone visiting this region: ensure you are vaccinated for yellow fever and have started your malaria prophylaxis well in advance. You’ll need to present your “yellow book,” a small booklet detailing your vaccination records, upon entering Zimbabwe. These health precautions are vital for a safe and worry-free journey.

On our walk from the border to Victoria Falls National Park, I couldn’t resist pausing for the ultimate tourist photo op with this iconic sign. It’s a classic, and sometimes, embracing the tourist clichés is part of the fun!

Finally, we entered Victoria Falls National Park on the Zimbabwean side. This park offers a series of incredible viewpoints, each presenting a different, magnificent perspective of the falls. The continuous spray creates a unique microclimate, sustaining a lush rainforest right at the edge of the gorge. Walking along the well-maintained paths, we were constantly enveloped by the mist, the thunderous roar echoing in our ears, and vibrant rainbows appearing and disappearing with the sun’s movements. It’s truly an immersive sensory experience. Here’s a visual journey through some of the breathtaking scenes we witnessed:

After hours spent marveling at the incomparable beauty of Victoria Falls, we slowly made our way back to the park entrance, where a dignified statue of David Livingstone stands as a tribute to the man who brought this wonder to the attention of the Western world. His legacy is palpable in this place, a testament to exploration and discovery.

A Night of Culture and Cuisine: The Boma Dinner Experience

Exiting the park, we grabbed refreshing slushies and found a taxi to take us back to our hotel. During the ride, our friendly taxi driver inquired about our dinner plans. When we mentioned simply eating at our hotel’s restaurant, he emphatically declared, “No! You have to go to Boma!” and handed us a colorful brochure. The description looked enticing, a unique cultural dining experience, so we readily agreed. He made reservations for us and kindly returned to pick us up from our hotel at 7:00 PM, a testament to the excellent local service we encountered.

The Boma dinner was an absolute blast! It was undeniably a very touristy experience, something we typically try to avoid, but we fully embraced it for what it was – an evening of fun, food, and vibrant African culture. Upon arrival, we were immediately wrapped in traditional chitenges (colorful fabric wraps), then invited to participate in a lively dance with the performers for a few minutes before having our faces painted with tribal designs. It was an instant immersion into the celebratory atmosphere.

After the festive welcome, we were seated for dinner. Our culinary journey began with a taste of Umqombothi, a traditional sorghum beer. It possessed a distinctive, strong flavor that I surprisingly enjoyed, though I ultimately opted for wine for the remainder of the meal, while my fiancé happily stuck with another Zambezi Lager. Appetizers were served at our table, but the main course was a lavish buffet, a true feast of African flavors. We indulged in a wide array of dishes, including fresh vegetables, various breads, succulent steak, adventurous warthog, flavorful peanut butter rice, traditional maize meal (sadza), grilled fish, comforting pumpkin soup, and many other local delicacies. Every dish was absolutely delicious, offering a wonderful insight into Zimbabwean cuisine. After dessert, the evening culminated in an interactive drum lesson, where the entire restaurant learned and played different traditional songs together. It was a fantastic, memorable experience, and I wholeheartedly recommend The Boma to anyone visiting Victoria Falls for an authentic, entertaining, and delicious evening.

Departure and Final Reflections

Our incredible journey came to a close as we headed back to the Victoria Falls airport, only to discover, true to form, that our Air Zimbabwe flight had been delayed by an hour and a half. This could have been disastrous, as we had a connecting flight from Johannesburg to Cape Town. However, my inherent travel paranoia had paid off! I had insisted on a generous window between flights, anticipating just such an eventuality (a moment where I gleefully pointed out to my fiancé, “SEE! My travel paranoia really does pay off!”). We made our second flight with just enough time to spare, breathing a sigh of relief as we headed towards our next destination.

This trip to Victoria Falls was, without exaggeration, a seriously incredible vacation – a close second only to our trip to Vegas, where my fiancé proposed! I cannot recommend this journey enough to anyone considering it. There is truly nothing quite like Victoria Falls; its immense power, breathtaking beauty, and the sheer volume of activities available make it a phenomenal destination. It’s also an excellent way to experience the distinct cultures and landscapes of two African countries, Zimbabwe and Zambia, within a single, seamless trip. Beyond the falls themselves, the surrounding area offers countless other adventures, from thrilling safaris to cultural village tours, ensuring there’s something for every type of traveler.

Stepping away from the thundering smoke, we left with hearts full of adventure, memories etched deep, and a renewed appreciation for the raw, untamed beauty of Africa. This was more than just a trip; it was a profound experience, a true bucket-list item brought to life. I hope this extensive recount inspires you to embark on your own extraordinary journey to Victoria Falls!